Saturday, July 4, 2009

Adventures in Denmark and Norway: Copenhagen




For the next 20 days we will be traveling in Denmark and Norway to explore with our family and scout out new tours for Ciclismo Classico. Already after 48 hours here I can see that the potential is huge for some wonderful rides throughout Denmark. The flat terrain, bike paths and charming culture is already getting my wheels spinning on ideas for 2010 itineraries! In the meantime, we will have fun with our family blending kids stuff with some family friendly fun.

We spent most of our second day in Copenhagen biking a delightful 27 KM tour on the infamous Bike with Mike tour that departs daily at the Main train station in Copenhagen. Still somewhat jet-lagged and dragging due to a late night at Tivoli, we arrived just in time to rent bikes and shovel down some fresh bread and juice. Mike, dressed in a bright green shirt and riding a handsome bright green steel bike appeared on the scene and cheerfully awaited for everyone to be settled and comfortable on their bikes before he began pedaling away like The Pied Piper of Denmark! Mike does three 20-30 KM city and country tours a day from March to December 31st and each one is a bit different than the next--that's an average of 100Km of tour guiding a day.

The four-hour tour was just the right pace for our three kids who usually led the pack. Using Copenhagen's incredible myriad of bike paths, lanes and special elevated bike ways, the tour winded its way through through the boulevards and tiny side streets of this amazing city, a true model of alternative transportation. I was struck by how quiet the city was and how safe and secure we all felt amidst the cars and other bikers. Thankfully my kids were impressed too. 6- year old Luca was right on Mike's tail and usually led the pack of 14 adults from all over the world. Mike shared that one of the growing industries for Copenhagen was exporting their wisdom and experience about bicycle transportation abroad. Bring it on Mike!

We started with the Carslberg brewery where we discovered that beer is no longer brewed there but big plans are in store to make the brewery a cultural center-residence. We pedaled through historic and residential Copenhagen and got to see the beat of the daily life on a Saturday afternoon. Mothers and fathers pushing their children around on Cristiana Bikes were everywhere. Mike pointed out countless historical facts and nuggets of wisdom all along the way including the fact that in 2008 Copenhagen was voted the best place to live in Europe. Even though a cup of coffee is six dollars and the personal taxes are 40%, the people love their way of life and it shows on their relaxed faces and highly social existence that spills out into the streets, cafes and along the harborway.

Other highlights on the tour included a visit to the gravesite of Denmark's beloved Hans Cristian Anderson, a lovely ride along the harbor to view the gorgeous boats, windmills and of course the Little Mermaid. We continued to the Amelienborg Royal Palace where we learned about the highly respected and love Queen Margrethe II, an accomplished scholar, linguist and painter, and has held many art shows over the years. Her illustrations—under the pseudonym Ingahild Grathmer—were used for the Danish edition of The Lord of the Rings. Towards the end of our ride we stopped to visit the sculpture of Soren Kierkegaard, another beloved Denmark son.

We concluded our tour back at the train station where Mike was quickly off to lead another afternoon tour, followed by a 7:00 tour. It was easily the best city tour I have ever done on my own or with a hired guide. His knowledge, kindness, expertise and love for his native city was a wonderful welcome to this fine cycling city.

I not only have a new cycling friend but a potential collaborator and inspiration for exciting cycling projects. One of his dreams: To give Obama and his family a bike tour around Copenhagen at this fall's climate summit that will have leaders from all over the world meeting in Copenhagen, a true model of sustainability. Another dream is to bring "Bike with Mike" to South Africa and train the locals there how to do his craft so they can have a self sustaining tourism business that only requires a few bicycles and lots of love and knowledge for where you live!

After the tour we retreated to the train station for lunch and then spent the rest of the day doing what Mike had taught us so well...enjoying the city by bike. Thanks Mike. Tomorrow Legoland!


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